One of my favorite ways to explore and see a new city is by early morning runs; awake before the city begins to roar, and just listening to the rhythm of the strange place. I exchange curious glances with local passerby, though some looks received more closely resemble bewilderment. As my run progresses, I watch the city wake with explosive energy. Without warning, people are bustling, cars are zooming, and the air thickens. My run comes to a close.
Yesterday morning, I was finally given the opportunity to run in Cotonou. One of the current Peace Corps volunteers offered to take a group of us out at 6:30. We left the hostel at 6:34 and began to run towards the city center. We ran mostly on sidewalks, however this does not imply that the terrain was not challenging. In Benin, a lot happens on sidewalks. There are piles of rubbish, sand that has drifted across the stone, gaping holes from lost stone tiles, failed man-hole covers that will take you directly to the city sewage drain, and moto-drivers who cannot pass a vehicle on the road, thus decide to off-road it. I felt like Indiana Jones, sans leather satchel and a phobia of snakes. An exciting way to start the day.
Later that day, we received zemidjan (pronounced zemee-john) training. They are the primary means of transportation here and are similar to a small motorcyle. We learned how to flag one down, the dynamics of the interaction with the driver (i.e. haggling), proper mounting procedure, and how to ride without falling off or burning your leg. It was a blast. But, what I found most interesting was the interaction with the driver. Prior to initiating any conversation about destination and travel fee, it is very important to greet the driver and ask how he is doing. This custom is also valid for any interaction with a stranger; I think this is a noteworthy gesture. It represents people acting as human beings and recognizing that humanity in others, as well. I thought of how often people actually greet the Subway sandwich worker before saying “Veggie Delight on Multi-grain bread. Toasted.” It’s a simple action, but carries significant weight.
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it seems a lot of countries outside the u.s. demand more interpersonal connection for everyday exchanges. pretty much any purchase at a shop in kosovo needs small talk, while major business deals (i got to sit in on a few for a story i was writing) make for snacks, turkish coffee, and lots of shooting the breeze. pretty great way to emphasize that people are just as important as the transactions taking place - something i fear may be nearing extinction here in the u.s.
ReplyDeleteglad to see you're loving benin already.
Ahh! I love exploring places by running through them. It's an interesting experience in many developing nations because most people don't go for runs, especially not women, because they (a) don't have time and (b) get plenty of exercise already.
ReplyDeleteI'm so excited to read about the rest of your adventures! :)